Finding treatments that make a difference for hidradenitis suppurativa (HS) is no easy feat. The pain, inflammation, and recurring flare-ups can take a toll — both physically and emotionally. While medical treatments like antibiotics, biologics, and surgery can play a key role in managing HS, many people also explore over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products to soothe symptoms and improve skin health.

One ingredient that’s been getting attention is glycolic acid. In this article, we’ll explore what glycolic acid is, how it works, and whether it might be a helpful addition to your HS skin care routine. We’ll also discuss potential risks and best practices for those considering it.

What Is Glycolic Acid and How Does It Work?

Commonly used in skin care for exfoliation and acne management, glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid. It is a naturally occurring acid made from sugar cane. It easily penetrates the skin and is used in skin care products to smooth wrinkles, lighten dark spots, and fade acne scars.

Glycolic acid removes dead skin cells and unclogs pores — without harsh scrubbing. Beyond these exfoliating properties, glycolic acid is also known to stimulate the production of collagen, a protein which helps maintain skin elasticity and firmness.

Does Glycolic Acid Help With HS?

With proper use, glycolic acid may support overall skin health. However, people with chronic skin conditions like HS should be cautious when adding a new ingredient to their skin care routine. As with any form of treatment, it’s always best to consult with your healthcare provider or dermatologist (skin specialist) before starting to use glycolic acid.

At present, there is not enough evidence to say whether glycolic acid is effective in treating the symptoms of HS. Although it’s widely used to manage comedones (pimples), glycolic acid’s peeling effect on the treatment of HS has not been established.

Some research suggests it can be beneficial in reducing the severity of HS lesions when it is used along with the traditional treatments, such as antibiotics and corticosteroids. One case study of a 54-year-old female outlined a treatment plan for HS that included a glycolic acid topical cream. While the person showed improvements, the authors called for more research to assess the effectiveness of using glycolic acid combined with other treatments.

Risks of Using Glycolic Acid

Maybe you or someone you know has HS and is considering using glycolic acid. If so, it’s important to be aware of potential risks:

• Skin irritation and sensitivity — Overuse of glycolic acid can cause skin irritation, including discoloration, burning, and itching.
• Increased sun sensitivity — Topical application of glycolic acid increases the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, resulting in a higher risk of sunburn.
• Allergic contact dermatitis — Although uncommon, some individuals may experience irritant contact dermatitis, which causes discolored, itchy, or inflamed skin. A patch test (applying a small amount on an area like the inner forearm) can help detect sensitivity before full use.
• Compromised skin barrier — Dermatology procedures involving glycolic acid (like chemical peels) can temporarily weaken the skin’s protective barrier. The skin barrier typically recovers within one to four days posttreatment.
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — Dark spots may appear after inflammation or skin injury, particularly in people with darker skin tones. While temporary, hyperpigmentation can take weeks to months to fade.
• Scarring — Applying glycolic acid directly on HS lesions may worsen scarring, especially if the skin is already damaged or if flare-ups are active.

OTC Options That Are Beneficial for HS

Below are some OTC products that may be beneficial for HS, but they should not replace medical treatment. Always consult your dermatologist or healthcare provider before adding a new product to your routine.

• Antiseptic wash — Washing with antimicrobial solutions can reduce the bacteria on your skin and prevent HS flare-ups. Examples include chlorhexidine and benzoyl peroxide.
• Topical antibiotics — Dermatologists can prescribe prescription-strength topical antibiotics. However, certain lower-strength formulations are available over the counter.
• Pain medications — Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), including ibuprofen and naproxen, can relieve pain and reduce inflammation from HS flare-ups. Make sure to use them as directed by your dermatologist.
• Keratolytic agents — Keratolytic agents are substances that eliminate unwanted tissue, such as warts and calluses. These skin products (such as resorcinol 15 percent cream) help exfoliate the skin. This can prevent the hair follicle blockages that lead to HS lesions. Salicylic acid can also be beneficial in unclogging the pores as it is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA).

Like all treatments, responses to OTC medications vary. You should always consult your health provider and dermatologist before beginning a new treatment. They will be able to tell you what to expect and respond if your symptoms worsen.

Talk With Others Who Understand

On myHSteam, the social network for people and their loved ones living with hidradenitis suppurativa, more than 46,000 members come together to ask questions, give advice, and share their stories with others who understand life with HS.

Are you considering using glycolic acid to treat HS? What other OTC remedies have you found success with? Share your thoughts in the comments below, start a conversation by posting on your Activities page, or connect with like-minded members in Groups.